Getting to the start line
In order to bring you all up to speed on our adventures since our arrival I'll keep things simple and start from the beginning. We stepped off the plane in Tenerife and hot tailed it via taxi and ferry to La Gomera only to find that Woodvale (the race organisers) had had their Landrover delayed in Cadiz and were still waiting on its arrival. Now ordinarily, if we'd shipped our boat with Woodvale like everyone else, this wouldn't have been a problem, but in an effort to save a few bucks we'd shipped our boat privately to Santa Cruz, in Tenerife, and were relying on Woodvale to borrow their Landrover in order to bring our boats safely over to La Gomera and the start line. The long on the short of it is that the only way of moving the boats (or anything cumbersome) from island to island in the Canaries is via Ro-Ro ferries and a vehicle/trailer combo, and what's more you simply can't hire a vehicle with a tow hitch in the Canaries so as far as we were concerned if we couldn't get hold of Woodvale's Landrover we were stuffed.
Thankfully via a combination of sheer dumb luck and blunt pig headedness we were able to find a solution that didn't result in us losing 3 days of prep time (as would have been the case if we'd had to wait on Woodvale). Following the disappointment of an absent Landy we decided to get up early the next morning and get on the first thing smoking back to Tenerife in order to hire a standard rental and drive the 70km from Los Christianos, where the La Gomeran ferry docks, up to Santa Cruz, where the boats were being held, in a vain attempt to try and convince the warehouse to help us get them down to the south of the island. Oh and I guess at this point we should mention that it wasn't just our boat we were trying to rescue but Charlie Pitcher's (our Burnham training partner) too. Anyway, after getting mildly lost in the absurdly confusing one way system of Santa Cruz town, and taking a minor detour via an underground supermarket car park, we ended up separating with Olli continuing on in the car and me finding a taxi and trying in my wholly unacceptable pigeon Spanish to explain where I was trying to get to.
By hook or by crook we eventually found the warehouse in the middle of a Santa Cruz industrial estate and breathed a very heavy sigh of relief to find the boats in perfect condition and clearly very well cared for. Following another half hour of broken conversation our most accommodating hosts managed to arrange for a couple of flatbeds to ferry the boats the first leg of the journey back to Los Christianos, and over the next hour, whilst riding shotgun back down the island's one and only motorway and accumulating dozens of disbelieving looks from our fellow travellers, we frantically phoned everyone we'd met the previous night in La Gomera desperately trying to convince them to get the last ferry back to Tenerife and help us get the trailers (sans car) loaded onto the final return ferry back to start line and to save us a night camped out in Los Christianos's ferry port car park.
Our prayers were answered when Derrin, the local sailing school mechanic, agreed, on the promise of copious libations, to drop what he was doing and hightail to the port and save our bacon. This, we have come to learn, was the just the first of the many favours for which we will be eternally grateful and that we have received since our arrival in the islands.
The "bomb" scare
Having safely parked up both ours and Charlie's boats in the paddock our next challenge was to pass race scrutinising. Mercifully, and thanks in no small part to our pre-race check with Simon Chalke back in Burnham, our actual race check was relatively painless and the only major issue was the lack of a second ventilator in the stern cabin. As it turned out a quick trip to the local chandlery and a brief foray into industrial strength power tools was all that was needed to rectify this problem and we were good to go. Or so we thought.
Less than 24 hours after passing our scrutinising, and whilst enjoying what we believed was a well earned celebratory post-sign off pint, Danny, the Woodvale sparky, rang us in a desperate panic to tell us that we'd been charging our two 100AH batteries in the midday La Gomeran 28°C heat without having removed the gas release plugs, that unbeknownst to us had been left in by an electrician back in the UK. Nevertheless judging by the tone of Danny's voice we knew something was seriously wrong so Olli dropped his glass where he stood (and for anyone that knows us well you know that just doesn't happen) and pegged it as fast as he could back to the race paddock. Upon his arrival Danny instructed him to put on as much clothing as he could (you'll see why in a moment), find and remove the batteries as fast as he could, and carry them off to a safe distance as far away from other people and boats as possible. Olli them proceeded very gingerly (no pun intended) to lever the plugs out of the batteries with a screwdriver in order to release the not insubstantial build up of highly flammable hydrogen gas that had started to accumulate inside them. With the potential for blowing the stern clean off of our boat narrowly avoided we now faced and anxious wait through the night, during which we were allowing our batteries to settle back down, before hooking them up again to check they weren't completely fried. Thankfully, you'll be pleased to learn, they still work and have been happily charging and depleting and charging again ever since. But if Danny hadn't been on board mounting our race tracking beacon at the time Lord knows how this little episode could have ended.
Anyone thirsty?
With the boat picked up, race checks, ventilator installation, and battery meltdowns all successfully circumnavigated we really didn't think anything else would go wrong before the start but, as luck would have it, fate was to throw us one more curve ball before the race began. Having launched the boat without any eventuality whatsoever we started to go through all the checks we couldn't perform on land, like turning on the bilge pump, checking the steering system, and, of course, making sure our water maker (probably the single most important piece of kit on board) was still working. Now you must understand we'd been using the water maker all summer back in the UK without incident so for us this was really should have been just a formality. However, judging by the overarching tone of this blog to date I'm sure you've guessed by now, just as we probably should have, that simply wasn't going to be the case, and sure enough it wasn't.
Having rowed out of the marina, in order to avoid sucking up the unavoidable nastiness lurking inside the harbour walls, we flicked the switch expecting to hear the now familiar hum and clunk of a happy and healthy water maker only to be left with the sound of waves on a falling tide gently lapping the boat and the last of our expectations for a stress free final week ebbing away with them. After a few moments of prodding and poking and generally looking at each other in abject disgust and disappointment at our latest predicament we decided to tuck our tail between our legs and row back into port and muster the services of someone more skilled than ourselves in its repair. Once again Danny, by now an electrical god in our eyes, came to our rescue and, thanks to Ollie having the foresight to purchase a spare feed pump before leaving Blighty, was able to fix the problem without too much hassle. The only problem now is that we currently no longer have a spare feed pump as our spare just became our main and if that one fails, well, I guess there'll be a lot of manual water making in the next 8 weeks, and believe me, the last thing you want to spend your down time doing when you've been rowing for 12 hours a day is to spend another 3 pumping water.
The bright side
Anyway enough doom and gloom. In spite of everything I've written above our time here in San Sebastian hasn't been all bad. We've met a lot of truly fantastic people and had a lot of fun too. Charlie, our oldest rowing mate and general all round sage of the sea, has been his usual effervescent self and hasn't failed to make friends and offer invaluable advice wherever he can. Nick and Johnnie, our fellow students from our Sea Survival course, launched their boat a couple of days ago and as I sit now typing this blog on our balcony I can see them snaking their way out of the marina for their first voyage into the Atlantic, here's wishing them a speedy return (they still owe us drinks from last night!). Pete van Ketts, the South African solo rower and veteran of the fleet, having rowed a pair's boat in '07, has been a steady rock for all of us to lean on with questions and queries of just what it's really like out there. Whilst Dave, Joe and Chris, the former students from the west coast, have always been on hand to swap jokes and help us forget our troubles at the end of each day. In fact we haven't met a bag egg out here. Everyone is just so willing to muck in and help out the other crews and, as corny and clichéd as it sounds, there really is a great atmosphere out here and genuine sense of camaraderie. It really feels like we're all in this together and in many ways the race is taking a back seat to the greater adventure. Just the other day we were called to a meeting to discuss the late arrival of a team from Guadalupe who'd been struggling to raise the GBP 15,000 entry fee and who, by the letter of the law, had already been disqualified from the race, yet to a man every single one of us voted in favour of allowing them to compete. At the end of the day we've all been through the same trials and tribulations in getting this far, and to have spent the last 2 years of your life striving for something so monumental only to be denied at the eleventh hour over something so comparatively minor as a couple of days just didn't sit right with any of us.
Right I've got to go now as I realise I've probably prattled on for long enough and if anyone is still reading this they're probably bored out of their minds, and anyway is the Rower's Fancy Dress party tonight and Olli and I have still got to get into character. Olli's going as Father Christmas, it's that time of year after all, and I'm, well let's just say my outfit is a little less seasonal. No doubt there'll be photos but whether they ever make it off the island or not is a different matter. What goes on tour stays on tour after all.
The race is due to start this weekend, weather permitting, so we'll ping out another blog just as soon as we're underway. Hope everyone back in the UK is getting in the festive spirit. Palm trees and 25 degrees are all we've got out here. Speak soon everybody, much love from me and Olli.